Block paving is a highly versatile and attractive paving solution for driveways, patios, and garden pathways. Because it uses individual interlocking blocks, it is highly durable, handles heavy loads, and is easy to repair—if a block gets stained by engine oil or damaged, it can be pried out and replaced without disturbing the rest of your paving.
While laying block paving requires significant physical labor and attention to levels, it is well within the reach of a determined DIYer. In this step-by-step guide, we walk you through the entire process, from excavation and sub-bases to screeding sand, cutting blocks, and final compaction.
Tools and equipment you will need
To achieve a professional-grade finish that will not sink over time, you must rent or buy these key tools:
- Rental Equipment: Wacker plate (plate compactor) and a mechanical block splitter (or angle grinder with a diamond blade).
- Hand Tools: Wheelbarrow, spade, rake, spirit level, string lines and wooden pegs, rubber mallet, screeding rails (metal pipes), straight timber screed board, and a stiff broom.
- Materials: Paving blocks, MOT Type 1 aggregate, sharp sand, kiln-dried jointing sand, and cement for border haunching.
1. Planning and excavation: Setting the foundations
A paving project will fail if the soil is not excavated deeply enough.
- Mark the area: Use pegs and string lines to outline your paving. Ensure you build in a fall (slope) of at least 1:80 (12.5mm fall per 1 metre of width) running away from any buildings to prevent standing water.
- Excavate the soil: Dig down to the required depth. For patios/walkways, dig down 150mm. For driveways carrying vehicle weights, dig down 200mm to 250mm to allow for a thicker sub-base. Remove all turf, roots, and organic soil. Compact the raw clay bed using the wacker plate.
2. Laying the sub-base and edging borders
- Lay the sub-base (MOT Type 1): Spread a layer of MOT Type 1 aggregate. For patios, this should compact to 100mm depth; for driveways, it must compact to 150mm. Run the plate compactor over the aggregate at least 4-5 times in different directions until it is rock solid.
- Set the borders (Edging blocks): Edging blocks hold the paving in place and prevent them from shifting outward. Lay your edging blocks on a 100mm concrete bed, using a rubber mallet to level them to your string lines. Back them with a concrete haunch (sloped backing) up to half the height of the block. Let the concrete cure overnight.
3. Screeding the laying course sand
- Lay screeding rails: Place two parallel metal pipes (screeding rails) on top of the compacted sub-base. Level them to your slope line.
- Spread sharp sand: Pour damp sharp sand between the rails. Do not use building sand, as it is too fine and will wash away.
- Drag the board: Pull your straight timber screed board across the rails to level the sand. Once level, remove the rails and fill the remaining slots with sand. Do not walk on the leveled sand course.
4. Laying the blocks and cutting edges
- Choose your pattern: 90° or 45° Herringbone is highly recommended for driveways as the interlocking pattern prevents blocks shifting under braking tires. Stretcher bond or basketweave is fine for pedestrian pathways.
- Laying sequence: Start laying blocks from a straight corner, working outward. Slide each block vertically against the next—do not drag them across the sand. Stand on the newly laid blocks as you work, never on the sand. Tap them lightly with a rubber mallet if needed to align them.
- Cutting edge blocks: Once the main body is laid, you will need to cut blocks to fill the gaps along the borders. Use a mechanical block splitter or an angle grinder to cut the blocks, and place them in the gaps.
5. Compacting and jointing
- First wacker run: Sweep the paving clean. Run the plate compactor (with a protective rubber mat attached to the bottom to avoid cracking the blocks) over the entire paved area. This settles the blocks into the sand course.
- Apply kiln-dried sand: Spread dry, fine kiln-dried silica sand over the paving. Use a stiff broom to brush the sand into the joints between the blocks.
- Second wacker run: Compact the paving again. The vibration will shake the sand deep into the joints. Brush on more sand, compact again, and repeat until the joints are completely filled to the top.
When to hire a professional driveway contractor
Laying block paving on a large driveway involves moving tons of soil and aggregate, which is highly labor-intensive. Additionally, if the screeding sand is not flat or the sub-base is not compacted correctly, the driveway will develop tire ruts within months.
To save time and ensure a lifetime guarantee, use GetBuilder to hire vetted paving contractors:
- Post your requirements: Detail your driveway size, desired block type, and location for free on GetBuilder.
- Review local trade profiles: Compare local groundworks specialists, check verified reviews, and confirm active public liability insurance.
- Compare written quotes: Match with local experts, review design layout plans, and select the right contractor with zero success fees.
